2006 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 1500

WHEELS:HUB

CERTAIN FEDERAL-MOGUL REPLACEMENT WHEEL HUB ASSEMBLIES WITH THE BRAND NAMES: NATIONAL, CARQUEST P/NOS. 515020, 515021, 515025, 515053, 515054, 515059, AND 515060, SHIPPED BETWEEN JANUARY 23, 2006, AND DECEMBER 20, 2007, SOLD FOR LIGHT DUTY AND MEDIUM DUTY TRUCKS. THE INBOARD RETENTION NUT USED TO M

ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING

ON CERTAIN TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH AN 8.1L V8 (RPO L8-VIN G) ENGINE HAVE A CONDITION IN WHICH THE ENGINE FUEL RAIL PULSE DAMPER RETAINER CLIP MAY FRACTURE RESULTING IN INADEQUATE RETENTION OF THE DAMPER.

TL* THE CONTACT OWNED A 2006 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN 1500. AFTER THE VEHICLE WAS DRIVEN AND PARKED, IT CAUGHT ON FIRE. THE FIRE DEPARTMENT WAS NOTIFIED AND WAS ABLE TO EXTINGUISH THE FIRE. A FIRE REPORT WAS FILED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO AN INDEPENDENT MECHANIC AND DEEMED DESTROYED. THE VEHICLE WAS TOWED TO A PERSONAL STORAGE LOT. THE DEALER WAS NOT CONTACTED. THE CONTACT STATED THAT THE MANUFACTURER INSPECTED THE CAUSE OF THE FIRE TWICE AND REQUESTED TO INSPECT IT A THIRD TIME. THE INVESTIGATOR CHECKED THE FUSE BOX AND THE HVAC ELECTRICAL SYSTEM; HOWEVER, A DETERMINATION HAD NOT BEEN MADE. THE CONTACT WAS CONCERNED THAT THE MANUFACTURER WOULD NOT BE FORTHCOMING WITH THE CAUSE OF THE FIRE. THE APPROXIMATE FAILURE MILEAGE WAS 130,000.

Mileage: 130,000

THE REAR LOCK ACTUATOR BECAME FAULTY AND WAS REPLACED 6/13. JUST SHORT OF 4YRS,THE ACTUATOR BECAME FAULTY AGAIN IN 6/1/17. THE DEALER WAS CONTACTED AN WAS TOLD SORRY, THE WARRANTY (1YR) HAD EXPIRED. 2 THINGS ARE THE PROBLEM WITH THIS ACTUATOR. BECAUSE THE BACKHATCH IS KEYLESS AND HAS NO RELEASE FROM THE INSIDE, THIS POSES AS A SAFETY RISK IF TRAPPED INSIDE THE VEHICLE. THERE ARE OTHER NUMEROUS SIMILAR COMPLAINTS FOR THE ACTUATOR BECOMING FAULTY WITHIN A SHORT PERIOD OF TIME, COSTING $700+ TO REPLACE.

Mileage: 114,900

WHILE TOWING THE FAMILY BOAT ON SECONDARY ROADWAYS, I ATTEMPTED TO STOP IN HEAVY TRAFFIC, WHEN I PRESSED ON THE BRAKE PEDAL IT WENT COMPLETELY TO THE FLOOR AND BOTH THE TRUCK AND BOAT CONTINUED ROLLING TOWARDS STOPPED TRAFFIC. I WAS ONLY ABLE TO STOP THE VEHICLE BY MANUALLY OPERATING THE PARKING BRAKE. HAD I NOT HAD THE PRESENCE OF MIND TO UTILIZE THE PARKING BRAKE I WOULD HAVE COLLIDED WITH THE TRAFFIC STOPPED IN FRONT OF ME. UPON INSPECTION I NOTICED A LARGE MOUNT OF BRAKE FLUID UNDER THE DRIVER'S SIDE FRONT WHEEL. I TRANSPORTED THE VEHICLE TO MY SERVICE STATION WHERE THEY PLACED IT ON A LIFT AND SHOWED ME THE EXTENSIVE CORROSION ON ALL OF THE BRAKE LINES AND TRANSMISSION COOLING LINES. THE LINE WHICH HAD FAILED RESULTED IN NO BRAKING CAPABILITIES WHATSOEVER. THERE IS NOT ONE SERVICEABLE BRAKE LINE LEFT ON THE VEHICLE. THE VEHICLE HAS 75K MILES ON IT AND IS IMMACULATE BOTH INSIDE AND OUT AND HAS BEEN REGULARLY SERVICED. THE BRAKE FAILURE RESULTING IN A TOTAL LOSS OF BRAKES, CAME WIT

Mileage: 75,000

ON DECEMBER 2, 2016, I WAS DRIVING THE SUV WITH MY FAMILY MEMBERS INSIDE. I WAS TRAVELING IN STATE HIGHWAY ABOUT 55 MPH WHEN A CAR IN FRONT OF ME BEGAN SLOWING DOWN. I ATTEMPTED TO SLOW DOWN AS WELL BY PRESSING THE BRAKE PEDAL BUT THE BRAKES DID NOT IMMEDIATELY ENGAGE. I THEN PRESSED THE BRAKE PEDAL HARD WHICH FOR ABOUT 1 SECOND CAUSED THE WHEELS TO LOCK. AS THE BRAKE PEDAL CONTINUED TO BE PRESSED DOWN, THE PEDAL SANK TO THE FLOOR AND THE ACTUAL BRAKES DISENGAGED AND THE SUV ONCE AGAIN BEGAN FREE-ROLLING. I PUMPED THE BREAK PEDAL AND I GOT SOME BRAKING ACTION OUT OF THAT, ALTHOUGH NO SIGNIFICANTLY. I VEERED THE SUV INTO ONCOMING TRAFFIC LANE TO AVOID COLLISION WITH THE REAR OF CAR IN FRONT OF ME, NEARLY CAUSING A HEAD ON COLLISION WITH THE ONCOMING CAR. I WAS ABLE TO VEER BACK INTO MY LANE AND SLOW DOWN TO GET OUT OF THE ROADWAY, BUT THE BRAKES DID NOT WORK EXCEPT ONCE THE CAR WAS MOVING AT MINIMAL SPEED. WHEN I GOT OUT OF THE CAR, I EXAMINED THE ROTORS TO SEE IF THEY WERE HOT; THEY

Mileage: 23

CORROSION OF HARD BRAKE LINE AT DRIVER / LEFT SIDE REAR, PARTLY HIDDEN FROM VIEW. NOT SEEN DURING INSPECTIONS. CONDITION DISCOVERED FOLLOWING SURFACE ROADWAY INCIDENT. VEHICLE WAS STATIONARY, IN DRIVE, POINTED DOWNHILL AT STOPLIGHT. BRAKE PEDAL SLOWLY STARTED GOING DOWN. PUMPING BRAKE HELPED A BIT, BUT SOON THE PEDAL STARTED FALLING AGAIN AND THE VEHICLE STARTED MOVING FORWARD. PUTTING VEHICLE IN PARK PREVENTED VEHICLE FROM STRIKING STOPPED VEHICLES IN FRONT. GOT OFF THE ROADWAY SHORTLY THEREAFTER AND DISCOVERED THE CORROSION AND LEAD MENTIONED ABOVE. VEHICLE IS CURRENTLY IN REPAIR SHOP WITH $1800 SERVICE BILL. BODY IS REQUIRED TO BE LIFTED OFF FRAME FOR REPLACEMENT LINES TO BE INSTALLED AND THAT IS *VERY* LABOR INTENSIVE. RESEARCHED ONLINE AND FOUND NHTSA HAS INVESTIGATED THESE VEHICLES DURING THEIR PRODUCTION RUN OF 1999-2006 ON C/K/SUBURBAN/TAHOE MODELS. VEHICLE WAS PURCHASED IN WASHINGTON STATE, WHERE SALT IS NOT USED ON ROADWAYS.

Mileage: 75,000

AFTER YEARS OF HAVING MY SUBURBAN THE LIFT GATE LOCK ACTUATOR STOPPED WORKING LAST YEAR. I SEARCHED ONLINE AND FOUND A REPLACEMENT OEM ACTUATOR WHICH I PURCHASED. I HAD IT INSTALLED BUT WHEN I TRIED TO USE IT, IT WOULD NOT WORK PROPERLY. THE TRUNK WOULD UNLOCK WHEN THE REST OF THE VEHICLE WAS LOCKED AND VICE VERSA. THE COMPANY THEN SENT ME REPLACEMENT AS THAT WAS A DEFECTIVE PART. THE NEW PART WORKED UP UNTIL MID MARCH OF THIS YEAR AND HAS NOW STOPPED WORKING ALSO. CURRENTLY, WHEN I TRY TO UNLOCK THE TRUCK ALL I HEAR IS A SMALL BUZZ COMING FROM THE ACTUATOR, BUT IT DOESN'T MOVE, IT'S FROZEN AT THE LOCK SETTING. I AM SURPRISED CHEVY HAS NOT ISSUED A RECALL ON THIS PART BECAUSE I FIND THE SAME ISSUE OCCURRING TO OTHER PEOPLE'S VEHICLES ALL OVER THE WEB. *TR

Mileage: 110,000

WHILE APPROACHING EXIT RAMP IN DELAWARE (EXIT 1A) TRAFFIC SLOWED SO I BEGAN TO HIT MY BRAKES TO SLOW AND ALL OF A SUDDEN THE BRAKE PEDAL HIT THE FLOOR AND I COULD NOT STOP I ALMOST HIT THE VEHICLE IN FRONT OF ME WITH THE EXCEPTION OF FAST MANEUVERING OF WHICH MY DASH CAM CAUGHT, I SWERVED TO THE LEFT LANE TO AVOID A COLLISION THEN HIT THE EMERGENCY BRAKES AND GOT BACK INTO THE OFF RAMP THEN I REALIZED THAT THERE WAS NO BREAK PRESSURE AND SMOKE BELLOWING FROM UNDER THE HOOD OF MY VEHICLE I PULLED OVER TO INSPECT AND NOTICE BRAKE FLUID LEAKING. I TOOK THE VEHICLE TO NATIONAL TIRE AND BATTERY WHERE THEY INFORMED ME THAT I HAD A DOUBLE FRONT BRAKE LINE RUPTURE - I AM HAVING THEM REPLACE (A $1000 JOB) HOWEVER I'VE ASKED TO RETAIN THE BRAKE LINES AS PROOF. *TR

Mileage: 110,000

I WAS DRIVING WITH MY FRIEND AND OUR 6 CHILDREN AND I APPLIED THE BRAKES WHEN ANOTHER CAR IN FRONT STOPPED SUDDENLY. THE BRAKES DID NOT WORK AND THE PEDAL WENT TO THE FLOOR. AT THE REPAIR SHOP ALL THE BRAKE LINES ARE BRITTLE. *TR

Mileage: 115,000

2006 SUBURBAN WITH REAR DOOR ACTUATOR FAILURE STARTING MAY 19 2014, MILEAGE OF 68000 APPROXIMATELY, LOUD NOISE WITH LOCKING OF REAR DOOR BY EITHER REMOTE OR WHEN ENGAGED IN DRIVING. PERIODICAL FAILURE OF DOOR TO OPEN AT ALL. *TR

Mileage: 68,000

2006 SUBURBAN WITH REAR DOOR ACTUATOR FAILURE STARTING MAY 19 2014, MILEAGE OF 68000 APPROXIMATELY, LOUD NOISE WITH LOCKING OF REAR DOOR BY EITHER REMOTE OR WHEN ENGAGED IN DRIVING. PERIODICAL FAILURE OF DOOR TO OPEN AT ALL. *TR

Mileage: 68,000

TRIED TO OPEN REAR LIFT GATE AND WINDOW. COULD NOT ACCESS EITHER. THERE IS NO EMERGENCY ACCESS, NO KEY OR MANUAL ENTRY. TOOK IT TO MECHANIC, CHECKED ALL FUSES, NO FAILURES THERE. APPARENTLY, THERE IS A SEPARATE MOTOR FOR THE LIFT GATE AND WINDOW. I WAS TOLD BY THE DEALER, YOU CAN NOT JUST BUY THE PART THAT IS FAILING, YOU MUST BUY THE WHOLE MOTOR, AND COST IS $450+ ,JUST FOR THE MOTOR !! *TR

JUST BOUGHT THIS VEHICLE A MONTH AGO WENT TO OPEN THE REAR LIFTGATE AND IT WON'T OPEN. *TR

DRIVING AT 60 MPH AND APPLIED BRAKES HARD TO AVOID HITTING DEER THAT CAME ON TO ROAD. VEHICLE BEGAN TO SLOW THEN SUDDENLY LOST NEARLY ALL BRAKING POWER AS PEDDLE WENT TO FLOOR . WENT WELL PAST AN UNCONTROLLED INTERSECTION THAT WAS THANKFULLY EMPTY OF TRAFFIC. SUBSEQUENT INSPECTION REVEALED TWO BURST BRAKE LINES WHERE 4 LINES ARE GROUPED ON FRAME NEAR BACK OF FRONT DRIVER DOOR. SEVERE RUST. *TR

Mileage: 97,000

MY BACK HATCH WON'T OPEN WITH POD AND THERE ARE NO OTHER WAYS TO GET IN. I CAN'T OPEN IT FROM THE INSIDE OR OUTSIDE, AND THE WINDOW WON'T OPEN EITHER. THIS IS A SAFETY HAZARD, AND I AM FINDING MANY OTHER PEOPLE ONLINE ARE HAVING THE SAME ISSUE AS I AM. *TR

GM DESIGNED THIS CAR WITH A NO KEY ENTRY FOR THE REAR HATCH. IT DOES NOT HAVE AN INTERNAL MANUAL UNLOCKING MECHANISM FOR THE HATCH. IF THE CAR IS IN AN ACCIDENT, THERE WOULD BE NO WAY TO OPEN THE REAR HATCH. ON TOP OF THIS, THE REAR HATCH LOCK ACTUATOR FAILS FOR THOUSANDS OF CUSTOMERS. THIS EITHER LOCKS THE HATCH IN PLACE, OR LEAVES IT UNABLE TO BE LOCKED. GM NEEDS TO DO A RECALL TO FIX THIS ISSUE. IT IS UNSAFE, AND COSTING THOUSANDS OF CUSTOMERS UPWARDS OF A $400 REPAIR JUST TO CORRECT IT AT THE DEALER. *TR

Mileage: 103,156

GM DESIGNED THIS CAR WITH A NO KEY ENTRY FOR THE REAR HATCH. IT DOES NOT HAVE AN INTERNAL MANUAL UNLOCKING MECHANISM FOR THE HATCH. IF THE CAR IS IN AN ACCIDENT, THERE WOULD BE NO WAY TO OPEN THE REAR HATCH. ON TOP OF THIS, THE REAR HATCH LOCK ACTUATOR FAILS FOR THOUSANDS OF CUSTOMERS. THIS EITHER LOCKS THE HATCH IN PLACE, OR LEAVES IT UNABLE TO BE LOCKED. GM NEEDS TO DO A RECALL TO FIX THIS ISSUE. IT IS UNSAFE, AND COSTING THOUSANDS OF CUSTOMERS UPWARDS OF A $400 REPAIR JUST TO CORRECT IT AT THE DEALER. *TR

Mileage: 103,156

GM DESIGNED THIS CAR WITH A NO KEY ENTRY FOR THE REAR HATCH. IT DOES NOT HAVE AN INTERNAL MANUAL UNLOCKING MECHANISM FOR THE HATCH. IF THE CAR IS IN AN ACCIDENT, THERE WOULD BE NO WAY TO OPEN THE REAR HATCH. ON TOP OF THIS, THE REAR HATCH LOCK ACTUATOR FAILS FOR THOUSANDS OF CUSTOMERS. THIS EITHER LOCKS THE HATCH IN PLACE, OR LEAVES IT UNABLE TO BE LOCKED. GM NEEDS TO DO A RECALL TO FIX THIS ISSUE. IT IS UNSAFE, AND COSTING THOUSANDS OF CUSTOMERS UPWARDS OF A $400 REPAIR JUST TO CORRECT IT AT THE DEALER. *TR

Mileage: 103,156

THE REAR LIFTGATE WILL NOT UNLOCK WITH KEY FOB OR INTERIOR DOOR LOCKS FROM THE DRIVER SIDE OR THE PASSENGER SIDE DOORS. THERE IS NO WAY TO MANUALLY UNLOCK OR OPEN THE LIFTGATE FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE THE VEHICLE. *TR

Mileage: 75,189

WE LEFT THE HOTEL IN DAYTONA BEACH AND STOPPED FOR BREAKFAST. WE THEN WERE GOING TO SEE THE RACETRACK ,AFTER GOING ABOUT 3 MILES THE "ENGINE COOLANT OVERHEATING" LIGHT CAME ON. I IMMEDIATELY PULLED INTO A NAPA STORE AND CHECKED THE COOLANT LEVEL WHICH WAS NORMAL. I CHANGED THE THERMOSTAT WHICH DIDN'T HELP SO I CHANGED THE WATERPUMP WHICH DIDN'T HELP.I HAD THE CAR TOWED TO A GARAGE. ON MONDAY THE MECHANIC HAD PULLED ONE HEAD AND THE VALVES WERE WARPED. AFTER DISCUSSING MY OPTIONS I HAD A NEW ENGINE INSTALLED ALONG WITH A RADIATOR. THE OVERHEATING HAPPENED SO FAST (3 MILES ),THERE WAS NO WARNING OTHER THAN ENGINE COOLANT OVERHEATING.THERE WAS NO STEAM FROM THE OVERFLOW SO THERE MUST HAVE BEEN BLOCKAGE IN THE MOTOR.(MY OPINION). *TR

Mileage: 88,855

THE A/C WORKS INTERMITTENT AND THEN NOT AT ALL. BURNING SMELL COMING FROM VENTS. THE RESISTOR AND CONNECTOR HAVE BEEN THE PROBLEM AND REPLACED. FIRST TIME UNDER WARRANTY BY DEALERSHIP. SECOND TIME BY ME A YEAR AGO AND NOW IT IS HAPPENING AGAIN. VERY UNSAFE. THE WIRES GET VERY HOT AND MELT. IT IS A FIRE HAZZARD. *TT